Page 24 - Classically Carolina 2017

Camden food scene, their thanks may be better different ingredients to cook with and the tried-
addressed to their oldest son, Paul. and-true methods of bakers which he still uses
It was Paul’s not realizing the visitors in his today at Mulberry Market.
home were his grandparents, along with a bit of The bakery’s location in an old brick building near
a nudge from Peter’s former boss in Columbia, the Camden Post Office came after Peter decided to
S.C., baker/chef/restaurant owner Werner go out on his own in Camden. The decision came
Stanek, that set the wheels in motion for the while he was working at a local saw mill with an
Rowlands’ return home. uncertain future. With a family, which now included
“I was baking out in Colorado and working younger son Ben, to support, he took the leap.
construction and selling some firewood out there,” Scouting properties, the Rowlands looked at 536
said Peter, a 1970 Camden High School graduate. E. DeKalb St., which was in sad shape. But the
“Mom and Dad came out there and Paul had just couple saw the building’s potential and essentially
been born. He was about a year old then, and when “rebuilt the thing from top to bottom.” They later
they came out to visit he just cried. It was like, learned the building previously housed a bakery in
‘Get these people away from me.’ the 1920s and 1930s
The Rowlands began to consider a move closer to In addition to the Rowlands’ everyday delicacies,
family. Then, a call came from Stanek asking Peter they also offer seasonal specialties such as
to take over his shops so he and his family could Christmas favorite, Stollen, a fruit bread of
visit Austria for six months. It seemed like fate … Germany origin, and, during Lent, there are hot
and a natural next step in the lives of Peter and cross buns, a spiced sweet bun.
Fran after their youthful adventures hitch-hiking Fran has also been a staple at the Kershaw
to Nova Scotia, passing time in Provincetown, County Farmers Market since its inception, selling
Mass., and living in Colorado. their baked goods from the back of her mini-van
Peter said the opportunity to work alongside each Saturday.
Stanek -- who was voted both Austrian Baker With 24 years of running Mulberry Market Bake
of the Year and Chef of the Year -- changed his Shop, Fran and Peter Rowland have experienced
professional life. Vienna Pastry, Peter recalled, was the highs and lows of the business. They know who
a small Austrian bake shop in Columbia, “a little to thank for their downtown Camden success story.
obscure, tiny place with wonderful, wonderful food.” “We have so many loyal customers who just keep
During his time with Stanek, Peter learned the coming back. That’s what keeps us going,” said Fran.
European way of baking which meant using less “Of course, we also have many new customers
sugar in pastries. He also picked up on new and who, happily, return again and again, too.

46 / Camden ~ Classically Carolina